Scout Tee & Maya Top with “Madewell” Necklines

Thursday June 14, 2018

In April, I made the Grainline Scout Tee, above left, in Mammoth Flannel in Pumpkin/Grey that I bought from Style Maker Fabric. I used the neckline variation tutorial from the Grainline blog (in 2 parts: here and here) and the added long sleeves with this tutorial. The neckline mod was quite straight-forward, although I made my V shorter than Jen did in the tutorial (by an inch), as it looked like the V showed off a bit more than I wanted. The sleeve tutorial was more confusing, and I was very unsure if I had to move the grainline or where to move it to on the new sleeve piece. I left it where it was and it all turned out okay, but if I make another long sleeve Scout, I’ll probably buy the recently released Scout sleeve variation pack.

I’ve been on a tear making Maya tops for my summer wardrobe, and I really like the Scout neckline variation, so last week I made a Maya with one (above right), from a lovely paprika colored linen from The Fabric Store.

I thought the V on the Scout was a still a bit too low, so I made it less deep on the Maya. Here’s what I did to the pattern pieces, using the Grainline tutorial:

  1. I used a bias binding for the neckline, so for both the front and the back pattern pieces, I lowered the Maya neckline 3/8″ to change the seam allowance to 1/4″.

  2. The Maya neckline is about 1 inch higher than the Scout. I raised the front neckline 2-1/2″

  3. I cut a 3-1/2″ V

To sew the Maya, I don’t use the instructions, as she makes French seams on the sides, and I can’t get a good curve under the arm that way. Here’s what I do:

  1. Sew the shoulder seams and finish the edges.

  2. Sew the side seams on my sewing machine, clip the curve, then use my serger to finish the fabric edge. This is the method Kylie shows here. Before I got my serger, I sewed the side seams on my machine, clipped the curve, and sewed a second line of straight stitches about 1/4″ from the seam line, catching the clips a bit, for reinforcement.

  3. Sew the neckline as explained in the Grainline tutorial

  4. Finish the hems.

Here’s the sleeve curve from the outside and inside.

The linen wrinkles a lot, but it’s really nice to wear for the hot weather we’re having (in the high 90s yesterday!)

A Maya top with a tulip hem

Thursday June 7, 2018

Back in March, Lori posted about the Burda wrap blouse she’d made:

I liked the edge detail and added it to my sewing queue for this summer. But when it got to the top of the list, I decided I didn’t like the angled edge, and wanted something rounder.

Asking Google, I got 2 different designs: The rounded tulip hem starts either under the arm or at the shoulder. And sometimes the tulip is the front and sometimes in the back.

I quickly found a Grainline Scout Tee hack with a tulip hem starting at the shoulder by Laglov. And another by Katie of What Katie Sews with the hem starting at the bottom of the arm hole.

I’ve made several scout tees and have had some fitting problems with them. I’ve had better fitting luck with Marilla Walker’s Maya top pattern, so I decided to use that as my base pattern. And I like the hem coming from the shoulder rather than the arm hole. I also thought it might be interesting to make the top reversible, so I can wear the tulip hem in either the front or the back.

To make the top reversible, I used the front pattern piece for the back of the blouse (the front and the back pattern pieces are the same except for the neckline). For the front, I cut 2 pieces that would overlap when sewn:

Drawing the hem curve was a bit tricky as my french curve ruler isn’t long enough — I did it free-style and smoothed it out with my ruler. My ruler is almost long enough to draw the under-the-arm-hole hem, so that would have been an easier hack.

I made a muslin, because I wasn’t very sure about my curve, especially the start point on the shoulder. I also wanted to see if the top worked if I wore it backwards (it did!). I made some changes to the curve and the start point and then went on to the next issue: how to sew the curved hem. The fabric I choose is a white Nani Iro double gauze with painted-on metallic dots ( from Stone Mountain & Daughter Fabrics.)

I wanted a 1/4″ hem if possible. After failing with several different methods — self-made bias tape (too thick), double fold using the narrow rolled hem attachment on my sewing machine (couldn’t get a smooth edge on the curve), hand-sewn narrow rolled hem (I really wanted machine top stitching along the edge) — I remembered my roll of white Hug Snug. It’s a thin, 5/8″ wide, rayon seam binding and to my delight it’s the same color and sheen as the metallic dots in the fabric. (Well, no one will see it, but I’ll know!)

I attached it like bias tape — sewing to the right side of the fabric with a 3/8″ seam, clipping the curve as close to the stitching as possible with my pinking bladed rotary cutter (much easier on my hands than pinking shears), turning & pressing the hug snug to the wrong side, then stitching down from the right side. The hug snug presses really well!

Now I thought I had all hard bits solved and was ready to sew! I basted the 2 front pieces together at the shoulder and neckline, and then sewed the top up as if the front was one piece. I liked my hug snug hem so much that I did the back hem, sleeves and neckline the same way.

And here it is:

After wearing the top, I see that the weight of the tulip hem side pulls it down a bit, so it’s good I made a deeper neckline for the back (or front if worn reversed). I don’t have a white short sleeve top for summer, so this fills a hole in my closet!

Thanks for reading!

Me Made May 2018

Sunday June 3, 2018

I participated in Me Made May for the first time this year. Zoe, the instigator, calls it a “challenge to improve your relationship with your handmade wardrobe.” Participants make a pledge for the month of May, and mine was to wear one me-made garment every day and document them on my instagram feed. Here’s what I learned, followed by snaps of each day’s outfits.

  1.  I have several ready-to-wear garments I didn’t wear because I have no me-mades to pair with them. During the month I made a tee to go with my favorite skirt, and I’ll be ordering fabric to make another tee for another item I wear often.
  2. I had a big ah-ha moment: I have a pair of cropped pants that I wear a lot in the summer. I’ve looked without success for similar pants in other colors. But, duh, my sewing skills are good enough now that I can make my own! I’ve found a pattern to start with and ordered some fabric.
  3. Taking pictures turned out to be easier and less onerous than I thought. I picked the one bare wall at our house, and used that as a backdrop every day. Probably very boring, but it’s helped me evaluate my outfits and made picture taking time really easy.

Me Made May 2018 week one

  1. Long cardigan made using a  Hey June Tallinn pattern hack
  2. Grainline Scout tee using sleeve and neck mods from the Grainline blog
  3. Seamwork Georgia dress and brown Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan
  4. McCall’s 7445 v-neck top/sweater
  5. Scoop neck tee from a Craftsy class and black Blackwood cardigan

  6. Navy Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan
  7. Brown Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan and Grainline Scout tee
  8. Grainline Hadley top
  9. McCall’s 7445 pants and v-neck sweater/top
  10. Named Clothing Kielo Wrap Dress
  11. me-made bag/pouch and refashioned button-up (altered from dress to blouse)

  12. Michelle Patterns A-line pocket skirt
  13. 100 acts of sewing’s Shirt No 1, cut up and made to approximate a Rachel Comey shirt.
  14. 100 acts of sewing’s Shirt No 1 and a Pamela’s Patterns Pencil Skirt
  15. McCall’s 7445 pants
  16. Navy Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan and Grainline Scout tee
  17. self-drafted tank top

  18. Michelle Patterns A-line pocket skirt
  19. Pamela’s Patterns Pencil Skirt
  20. 100 acts of sewing’s Shirt No 1 and holding a black Blackwood cardigan
  21. McCall’s 6750 from Craftsy class
  22. Color-blocked Marilla Walker Maya top and McCall’s 7445 pants
  23. Brown Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan and Grainline Scout tee
  24. Black Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan and color-blocked Marilla Walker Maya top

  25. Black Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan
  26. Navy Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan and Grainline Studio hemlock tee
  27. Color-blocked Marilla Walker Maya top
  28. Grainline Studio hemlock tee
  29. 100 acts of sewing’s Shirt No 1
  30. Michelle Patterns A-line pocket skirt
  31. Grainline Studio hemlock tee and McCall’s 7445 pants