In April, I made the Grainline Scout Tee, above left, in Mammoth Flannel in Pumpkin/Grey that I bought from Style Maker Fabric. I used the neckline variation tutorial from the Grainline blog (in 2 parts: here and here) and the added long sleeves with this tutorial. The neckline mod was quite straight-forward, although I made my V shorter than Jen did in the tutorial (by an inch), as it looked like the V showed off a bit more than I wanted. The sleeve tutorial was more confusing, and I was very unsure if I had to move the grainline or where to move it to on the new sleeve piece. I left it where it was and it all turned out okay, but if I make another long sleeve Scout, I’ll probably buy the recently released Scout sleeve variation pack.
I’ve been on a tear making Maya tops for my summer wardrobe, and I really like the Scout neckline variation, so last week I made a Maya with one (above right), from a lovely paprika colored linen from The Fabric Store.
I thought the V on the Scout was a still a bit too low, so I made it less deep on the Maya. Here’s what I did to the pattern pieces, using the Grainline tutorial:
- I used a bias binding for the neckline, so for both the front and the back pattern pieces, I lowered the Maya neckline 3/8″ to change the seam allowance to 1/4″.
- The Maya neckline is about 1 inch higher than the Scout. I raised the front neckline 2-1/2″
- I cut a 3-1/2″ V
To sew the Maya, I don’t use the instructions, as she makes French seams on the sides, and I can’t get a good curve under the arm that way. Here’s what I do:
- Sew the shoulder seams and finish the edges.
- Sew the side seams on my sewing machine, clip the curve, then use my serger to finish the fabric edge. This is the method Kylie shows here. Before I got my serger, I sewed the side seams on my machine, clipped the curve, and sewed a second line of straight stitches about 1/4″ from the seam line, catching the clips a bit, for reinforcement.
- Sew the neckline as explained in the Grainline tutorial
- Finish the hems.
Here’s the sleeve curve from the outside and inside.
The linen wrinkles a lot, but it’s really nice to wear for the hot weather we’re having (in the high 90s yesterday!)