Vogue 9187

Saturday October 17, 2020

Vogue 9187

This top is part of my Work from Home Module. On the right is my wearable test fit, and the left is the fabric I selected for the module.

The pattern is described as a “top (close-fitting through bust) with neckline variations, side-front and side-back princess seams, front hemline slits, and back zipper”. I would add it has neck facings and a quite large hem facing. It’s a re-issue of a 1960 pattern. Here’s the envelope & line drawings.

Vogue 9187 pattern envelope

I made view D and added the sleeves, in size 12 at the shoulders, grading to 14 just below the bust (I’m 35″, 29″, 40″). I knew that with a separating zipper in the back, I would never wear the top — getting the zipper started and zipped up by myself would be impossible. Instead I cut the back piece on the fold, intending to put an invisible zipper in the side seam. But the top fits over my head just fine without the zip, and with no zipper, this is a very easy sew. I suspect this wouldn’t be the case for the other views with the narrower neckline.

The other alteration I made was to the sleeves. I don’t like the length, so I made them more of a cap sleeves. I found this post useful in figuring out how to change the sleeve pattern piece. Here’s a very rough sketch of sleeve, with my change marked in red.

For my test fit, I used some leftover linen. I made 2 alterations: I’m really an A cup and the top is drafted for a B, so I took the princess seams in. Second there was too much fabric above my bust, so I took the shoulder seams up about 1/2″. The top is quite cropped. I usually shorten most patterns by about 2″ (I’m 5’3″) but this didn’t need to be shortened. If you’re taller than me, you might want to check the length.

I was so pleased with it after I got it basted, I decided to finish it and practice my top stitching. Here’s a close-up of the top stitching:

top stitching on vogue 9187

For my Work from Home Module blouse, I used a rayon crepe. I only had 1 meter, but had no trouble getting the pattern to fit.

Two design details I really like about this top are the back neckline and the hem detail:

vogue 9187 details

But maybe the best thing is that they both coordinate with the purple pants I made this summer!

Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt

Thursday October 1, 2020

For the work from home module wardrobe sew-along challenge, I planned to make the Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt. But I decided to make a test garment first, to check the size and fit. I’ve had a 2 yard piece of rayon poplin in an olive green with pink/beige dots from Workroom Social in my stash for several years. The color and print are right up my alley, but while I’ve considered it for multiple projects, it never seemed quite right. But this year I’m determined to find uses for the orphan fabric in my stash, so it got drafted for the Evie test fit.

Little did I know how much fun this would be to sew, all the new things I got to try and how happy I am with the finished skirt!

The Evie is described as a “floaty and flared midi-length bias skirt pattern and includes two versions. View A is finished with a bound waistline and side zipper opening and View B is a pull-on version with scalloped elasticised waist.” You can see Instagram examples here and at the bottom of the post I’ve listed several blog reviews that I found helpful.

The pattern is very simple, with the same piece used for both the front and back. However, the PDF includes only 1/2 the piece, you have to make a tracing to get the entire front (or back). I made a size 8 at the waist, grading out to a 10 at my hips. I’m w: 29″, h: 40″, and 5’3″.

I decided to make view A, with the zipper, as my local Joann didn’t have the needed 5/8″ elastic (but they had lots of invisible zippers). But I also didn’t have enough fabric to cut the very long bias cut waistband piece that view A called for. While I procrastinated on what to do, I asked Google about sewing bias cut skirts. I found a Mimi G sew-along for Mccall’s 7931, a very similar pattern. That pattern has a facing, not a waistband, and Mimi G used a 1″ wide strip of grosgrain ribbon instead of the facing. Problem solved! I happened to have a piece of matching (beige) 1″ grosgrain ribbon that I could use to finish the top of the skirt rather than the waistband called for in the pattern.

Mimi G’s video has some tips for working with bias cut fabric — don’t handle the fabric or let it drape over the edge of the work surface or it will stretch out. Serge the side seams before doing anything else (sort of like stay stitching). And sew both side seams of the skirt from bottom to top.

I also found another helpful youtube video: Professor Pincusion’s How to Cut and Sew on the Bias. She suggests using a narrow zigzag stitch on the seams to add in some stretch. But she also has a lot to say about pattern layout. She says that fabric has 2 biases — perpendicular to each other. And it’s important to have the front of the skirt on one bias and the back on the other.

The Tessuti pattern doesn’t have a layout diagram, but does have both grainlines indicated on the pattern. So as not to get confused, I drew the grainlines in different colors, and wrote “Use for front skirt piece” and “Use for back skirt piece” on the pattern.

Bias markings on pattern

The pattern calls for using a tear-away interfacing for both the waist and the seam where the invisible zipper is inserted. That interfacing isn’t available in the US, and Professor Pincusion recommended iron-in lightweight tricot, so that’s what I used.

I thought the skirt was a bit short when I was done, so I wanted to make the smallest baby hem I could. Enter the Ban-rol waistband stabilizer. I got some from Style Maker Fabrics. They say Ban-rol can be used “as a stabilizer and guide for sewing tiny rolled hems on even the most difficult fabrics, like rayons, sheer, and more.” It made the job so much easier!

This video does a much better just than I can of explaining how to use the stabilizer, but here’s a picture of my first test. You sew the stabilizer to the edge of the front of the fabric, then turn the stabilizer to the back, sew the hem in place, pull out the stabilizer and you’re done.

It was surprisingly easy, although slightly awkward hemming a wide skirt, as you need a piece of ban-rol that is as long as the hem. And here’s my tiny hem.

Turns out I have lots of tops and toppers to wear with my new skirt, all year round.

for winter: True Bias Nikko turtleneck and Decades of Style 3’s a Charm jacket
for fall and spring: True Bias Nikko turtleneck & self-drafted cardigan;
for summer: cropped V8772

front and back


Tessuti Evie Bias Skirt pattern

Evie on Instagram

Helpful blog posts: Fiona (Diary of a Chainstitcher), Hollydolly

Mimi G bias skirt sew-along

Professor Pincusion’s How to Cut and Sew on the Bias

Instructions for doing a baby hem with Ban-roll waistband stabilizer, which is available from Style Maker Fabrics