{"id":811,"date":"2020-05-07T16:28:03","date_gmt":"2020-05-07T22:28:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/?p=811"},"modified":"2020-05-16T11:53:28","modified_gmt":"2020-05-16T17:53:28","slug":"naughty-bobbin-patterns-cookie-knit-shirt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/2020\/05\/07\/naughty-bobbin-patterns-cookie-knit-shirt\/","title":{"rendered":"Naughty Bobbin Patterns Cookie Knit Shirt"},"content":{"rendered":"

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I think I would only were collared shirts, so I’ve made quite a few button-ups. But sewing them is fraught with challenges. <\/p>\n

\n
  1. getting the points on the collar to to be point-y, not round, and to match each other
    \n
  2. getting the collar stand and button placket to match vertically
    \n
  3. setting in the sleeves without puckers
    \n
  4. making a neat cuff placket
    \n
  5. making straight buttonholes
    \n
  6. getting the buttons sewn on in the right place\n<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    The Cookie Shirt<\/a> from Naughty Bobbin Patterns is designed to be used with knits or stretch fabric and alleviates 2 of these challenges. The collar has a non-standard construction that make the points not a problem. And, as with a knit tee, the sleeves are set in flat, so no basting and crimping to get them into a too small round armhole. <\/p>\n

    My fabric choice — a stretch velvet — isn’t ideal. It’s thick and my sewing machine didn’t like sewing it, but I’m pleased with the finished shirt. <\/p>\n

    The pattern<\/h4>\n

    The PDF-only pattern comes in sizes S to XL, bust 32″-46″. It is “a knit version of the classic button-down dress shirt…featuring full length sleeves into 2\u201d cuffs and a looser fit through the body.” There is no sew-along and the instructions are terse, much like the instructions in Burda Magazine. I wouldn’t attempt this as my first button-up shirt.<\/p>\n

    According to the size chart, I should start with the small and grade to medium at the waist and large at the hips (I’m B35 W29 H39). There are no finished measurements. So I compared my TNT woven shirt pattern to the Cookie pattern and determined a small would be fine, and probably a bit too big. So there is a lot of ease, especially though the waist and hips.<\/p>\n

    The construction<\/h4>\n

    I made 2 fitting alterations — based on my TNT woven pattern, I shortened the length 4 inches, and shortened the sleeve 1 inch. Next time I would un-shorten the sleeves. I also removed the lined back yoke, thus making the back one piece. I didn’t think I’d like the velvet against my back. My fabric is quite thick and I also thought it would make the shirt bulky.<\/p>\n

    As I mentioned above, the collar construction is non-standard. It’s one long piece and sewn like a neck band on a t-shirt. This is the pattern piece below. You sew the short ends together to make a back seam, fold it in half vertically and sew the curvy edges together. The points aren’t formed by a pivoted sewing line, so when you unfold the collar, there’s no poking and prodding to get crisp corners. I’m going to adapt this to my TNT woven pattern. <\/p>\n

    <\/center><\/p>\n

    Most of the seam allowances are 3\/8″, except for the collar stand and collar construction, where they are 1\/4″. My sewing machine hated this tiny seam allowance with the stretch velvet — no amount of pins would keep the collar stand and the shirt aligned as I sewed them (I used my walking foot and a stretch needle). After unpicking several times, I resorted to wondertape and a bit of washable fabric glue to get the job done.<\/p>\n

    The one problem I had with the instructions was the continuous lap sleeve placket — they didn’t make sense to me. My TNT woven pattern uses this same placket (a bias strip sewn around a slit in the sleeve), so I pulled out the instructions for that pattern. Sew-a-holic has a tutorial for sewing this type of placket here<\/a>.<\/p>\n

    Pretty much everything else went together easily. For the hem, I used double sided fusible stay tape <\/a>, just as I would on a knit tee. I attached it before I sewed up the sides of the shirt, leaving on the paper. After sewing in the sleeves and closing up the sides, I removed the paper, folded the hem up, using the edge of the stay tape as a guide, and ironed it down. I hand-sewed the hem, as I didn’t like top-stitching in the velvet.<\/p>\n

    The finished shirt<\/h4>\n

    The finished shirt was really big in the front. I wore it for a day and knew I wouldn’t wear it again. There was too much fabric in front to properly tuck in the shirt and, untucked, cold air kept coming up the front. So I knew I had to make it sit closer to my body. <\/p>\n

    I took the sides in at the waist about 3\/4″ on each side. That helped some but not enough. So I resorted to fish-eye darts on the front, starting below my bust, maximum at the waist, and ending at the hem. I was hesitant to put in the darts as the fabric was tricky to iron well. I put a piece of scrap velvet under the shirt when ironing and used a press cloth, but I wasn’t all that successful in getting the darts to lie flat. <\/p>\n

    Below, on the left is no darts. On the right, darts. I’m pleased with my shirt. But next time I’d use a thinner knit.<\/p>\n

    <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    I think I would only were collared shirts, so I’ve made quite a few button-ups. But sewing them is fraught with challenges. getting the points on the collar to to be point-y, not round, and to match each other getting the collar stand and button placket to match vertically setting in the sleeves without puckers … Continue reading “Naughty Bobbin Patterns Cookie Knit Shirt”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/811"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=811"}],"version-history":[{"count":23,"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/811\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":843,"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/811\/revisions\/843"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=811"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=811"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/dino.com\/blog\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=811"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}